Polar Survival Suit

The Fram's mandatory safety lecture Sunday morning included how to get into the polar survival suits. And on top of this you put a life vest. I will put my faith on the captain and crew to transport us without needed to do such chic attire.

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Newport: Memory of Childhood

To most the city of Newport, Rhode Island, is associated with the Gilded Age mansions lining Ocean Avenue and the Cliff Walk. For me it's the Awful Awful. The Awful Awful is a thick milkshake, but instead of being made from ice cream, milk and syrup, most of its dairy content comes from ice milk. It originated at Bond's, a northern New Jersey ice cream chain with an outpost in my home town, Elizabeth. It got it's name because it's "Awful Big, Awful Good". Drink three and get your name inscribed on the wall, plus a fourth for free. Two ice cream chains in New England took notice of the thick shake and bought rights to market it under the Awful Awful name anywhere but in Bond's home territory of the Garden State. But when one of them starting expanding, not being able to enter the New Jersey market was a major impediment, so they changed the name to Fribble. That's what the chain -- Friendly's -- continues to call its shake, though it...

Nous Arrivons en France

The church and houses across the harbor are on L'Ile-aux-Marins. Permanent residents left after the electric cable was cut in 1963 and the government decided not to replace it. Summer homes remain. Today we arrived in France. The isles of St. Pierre et Miquelon, about 20 miles off the south coast of Newfoundland, are French territory, not a French-speaking part of Canada. The currency is the Euro. And the croissants and pastries are delicious. This overseas territory, which sends is own senator and deputy to the National Assembly in Paris, is the last toehold of France on the North America landmass. Although the fishing industry remains present, it has been in steep decline, as in neighboring Newfoundland. Local officials hope tourism, fueled by a brand new airport, will boost the economy, though the dream of offshore hydrocarbons is there, too. The passengers abroad the Fram welcomed the visit for many reasons, but chief among them was docking at a St. P...

St. Anthony: Iceberg Hunters and Sir Wilfred Grenfell

Prior to this cruise, all I knew about St. Anthony was from a cable television reality series from six years ago, "Iceberg Hunters." The four-episode series followed locals as they took their small boat out to the icebergs congregated offshore, shot off pieces with their rifles then hauled them back to shore for bottling as water (or perhaps as part of the distillation process of making vodka). The town, the largest on Newfoundland's northern peninsula, remains a hub for fisheries, though the trawlers, draggers and netters based here travel as far as Greenland waters for shrimp, scallops and finfish. St. Anthony and the region, including mainland Labrador across the Belle Isle Strait, are closely associate with Sir Wilfred Grenfell, born in the north of England, who after hearing American evangelist Dwight L. Moody in London found his calling: Grenfell joined the Royal Mission for Deep Sea Fishermen and in 1892 dispatched to Newfoundland where he devoted his life to i...

Greenland Passage

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