Skip to main content

An Offer I Couldn't Refuse

Fram  crew washes Panorama Lounge windows
This repositioning cruise of the Fram from Arctic to Antarctic comprises different segments, each of them bookable. My trip from Greenland to Halifax is the first of the repositioning segments, followed by New York; Miami; Puerto Limon, Costa Rica; then via the Panama Canal to Callao, Peru, and Valparaiso, Chile, before heading to Antartica.

The problem for Hurtigruten, the operator of the MV Fram, is that these repositioning cruises do not draw full boats. Even on this first segment from Greenland, the 240-passenger vessel is barely half full. The two segments along the U.S. East Coast are even lighter. Only 84 souls are booked from Halifax to New York.

Including me.

I planned to end my journey in Halifax, but when I heard so few were traveling south to New York I asked the purser if he could make a deal. He said he'd get back to me in a couple hours "with an offer you can't refuse".

He did. I didn't. So for less than the price of seven nights in a downtown Marriott  I'll spend another week aboard the Fram, taking the train back to Philadelphia from New York rather than flying back from Halifax through Toronto or Montreal. It will cost about five or six times the coach air fare (or about twice the business class fare, a more appropriate gauge), but in my mind that's still a bargain.

After we struck the deal, however, there was a hitch. Paolo of the purser's office explained there was some issue with Homeland Security which would prevent disembarking in New York. I found that curious, because New York is a two-day port of call. Instead he offered to take me to Miami for the same price with a port call in Charleston, a city that's on my bucket list. I told him that I'd consider it, but my schedule would most likely prevent an additional five days at sea beyond the added week to New York. Miracle of miracles, the next day he said the ship's agent in New York had worked it out and I and a handful of other passengers will disembark at the West Side piers.

All this and another cabin upgrade, too. Probably the same size, just a higher deck. And I suspect that's done for the vessel's convenience, not mine. Grouping the few remaining passengers on two decks rather than three will simplify the Fram's hotel operations.

What makes the Halifax-New York segment so appealing is our first scheduled U.S. port of call: Bar Harbor, Maine, a place I know well having visited there almost every year for nearly half a century. I'm looking forward to entering Frenchman Bay on the Fram.

En route we'll most likely make landing at a town or village along the Nova Scotia coast. After Bar Harbor calls will be made in Bucksport and Rockland, Maine, Boston, and Newport, Rhode Island before entering New York Harbor.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Photographer at Sea

Everyone on board has a camera, of course. Including the two professionals aboard: Camille, the in-house photographer who offers tips and provides her photos at the end of the journey (for a price, of course), and Dan, part of a contingent of travel journalists aboard this repositioning cruise, accompanied by Hurtigruten's global PR manager, Øystein Knoph. But the photographer pictured here is no professional. He's a weight-lifter, based on the amount of heavy glass in that lens. He was trying to catch photos of trailing birds this morning on the Labrador Sea. I seriously doubt he could hold the camera steady enough (no tripod) to get a decent snap. I am reminded by this scene of the old saw about the inverse ratio between the size of a photographers lens and his... As for me, I'm relying on my iPhone 7's camera and my lightweight, compact Canon G-9, which has served me well for the past eight years. I considered bringing one of my old 35mm film cameras with lense...

A Canadian Thanksgiving

Once ashore in Halifax Monday I sought in vain to replenish my cigar supply, and pick up a Cuban or two to enjoy at sea. But it was Canadian Thanksgiving, and all stores selling decent stogies shut. Still, I wanted to enjoy a relaxing cigar after walking up and down the Spring Garden Road shopping district. I found as bench in the sun in front of the Halifax Memorial Library and lit up. Then I turned around to find Winston Churchill gazing upon me, undoubtedly as upset as when Yousef Karsh took away the PM's  cigar to make his iconic photograph. I did my best to imitate the Churchillian scowl. A traveling companion from Glasgow thinks I nailed it. Smithsonian Magazine has an interesting account of the story behind the photo. The downtown shopping district of this city of about 400,000 was filled with people -- most of them tourists off the four cruise ships tied up a 15-minute walk away in the harbor, though some locals were taking advantage of the warm if overcast weath...

Salem: Great Knockers

Forget the witches or the House of the Seven Gables when visiting Salem, Massachusetts. Instead, see a great set of knockers, and a whole lot of whimsical metalwork, at Herb Mackey's Metal Sculpture Yard, the last house on  Blaney Street aside the parking lot for the Salem-Boston Ferry. It's free, and I'm told the whimsical welder who created the metal creatures will come out to chat when he's home. On Saturday, after spending a delightful time over a lingering lunch with my cousins Susan and Rita, who took the train to Salem from their Cambridge homes, I took a slow stroll through downtown Salem, maneuvering among the witches, warlocks and hanger-ons who descend upon this historic maritime hub to commemorate a nasty period in American colonial history, the Salem witch trials.  The hordes made the Halloween crowds who descend on my neighborhood for Eastern State Penitentiary's annual scare show seem puny. Salem's most notable cultural attraction is ...